Overview
Peak Lenin 7134m is the perfect first 7000er: technically straightforward, beautiful scenery and a fantastic long summit ridge offering outstanding views across the entire Pamir mountain range!
Situated in the remote and beautiful Pamir mountain range of Kyrgyzstan, Peak Lenin is one of the five famous Snow Leopard Peaks. Often dubbed as one of the ‘easiest’ 7000ers in the world, it offers a non-technical climb on glaciers, snow and rocks into a magical high altitude world.
Organised and lead by Mountain Expeditions
Mountain Expeditions are expedition specialists and the Himalayas are the world’s greatest playground! We love organising and delivering expeditions to Nepal and do so with a friendly and supportive approach. We understand that joining any of our expeditions is a big deal, so we try and make sure everything is perfect from start to finish.
UK Expedition Leader
Mountain Expeditions employ a small number of the UK’s most experienced High Altitude Expedition Leaders and we will always send a UK Expedition Leader to facilitate your expedition. All of our leaders are chosen on their individual merits which we base on their mix of vast mountain experience, interpersonal skills and of course, qualifications.
Local Guides
With all our expeditions we partner with the very best local in-country agencies who share our ethos of delivering outstanding expeditions. We believe that a combined leadership team built of a UK Expedition Leader and a highly experienced local guide is the strongest and most successful way to deliver our expeditions. For Peak Lenin a local guide will be with the team throughout the entire expedition and, if ratio’s require it, additional local guides will be used for the summit attempt.
Fully supported by local cooks, porters & guides
The truth behind organising and leading worldwide expeditions is that you need an excellent local in-country agent to work with. Over the years Mountain Expeditions have developed a long standing relationships with our local crew in Kyrgyzstan and the added value of our friendly and efficient local staff never goes unnoticed – we know it makes a big difference to your experience. Our local team are a huge part of your experience and it makes all the difference on the mountain.
Small teams & personal approach – maximum 8
On big mountains like Peak Lenin we don’t believe leading Open Expedition teams of 10+ members is good practice and it certainly doesn’t offer a very personable experience! All our Open Expedition teams are capped at 8 resulting in a close knit, small team experience.
Very high summit success rate
We believe that our summit success rate is down to a combination of smaller teams and using the most experienced High Altitude Expedition Leaders. This combination has shown time and time again that this is the safest approach whilst on the mountain.
21 day itinerary with a superb acclimatisation profile
Our itinerary has been chosen to make this expedition the very best we believe it can be. We’ve included an entire preparation day in Osh which allows time for people to rest after a long flight, time for any lost luggage to catch up with us and time for your Expedition Leader to do a full kit and medical check before a relaxed expedition briefing with a cold beer!
A perfect first big 7000m mountain
There are many reasons people choose to climb big mountains and many reasons why you might choose to climb Peak Lenin. Please read our Trip Suitability section to find out more.
Accommodation: Hotel & tents
Many of our expeditions start and finish in a bustling city in a really nice hotel. Maybe it’s first and last impressions that count or perhaps we just enjoy having nice accommodation to start and finish a trip but it’s what we do! On Peak Lenin we use our favourite hotel in Osh and we ensure that camplife is as comfortable as possible on the mountain.
Trip Suitability
Peak Lenin is a real high altitude adventure. Technical climbing skills are not required, however experience at altitude and an understanding of glacier travel is essential. A high level of fitness is required as Peak Lenin is physically demanding with big days and big packs. You will be expected to be self-sufficient and self-reliant on the mountain.
Expedition training
There will be a compulsory training weekend for the whole team which will be held in Scotland in the winter. This will comprise of a 3 day 2 night mini expedition in winter conditions, using the tents and cookers that will be used for the main expedition. It will also be an opportunity to discuss the kit list extensively and any other aspect of the trip.
This training weekend is not included in the price of the expedition as some members may join the team after the training has taken place – costs will be kept to an absolute minimum.
If you are unsure if your experience is suitable for Peak Lenin, please don’t hesitate to Contact Us and we’ll discuss it with you in more detail.
Itinerary
The itinerary below is intended as a guideline only, although every effort will be made to adhere to it, changes may be forced upon it by weather conditions, transport failure or other unforeseen events. You should be prepared to be flexible where necessary.
You can download the itinerary as a PDF here.
Map
Included
When you book with Mountain Expeditions, we want you to know exactly how much the trip is going to cost you, with absolutely no hidden extras or last-minute costs. Our fully inclusive land-only price includes almost everything from the minute you land at Osh International Airport until the time when we drop you back – there are no hidden extras!
The following are included in our price:
- A UK Expedition Leader who has extensive high altitude experience
- A local mountain guide
- All in-country airport transfers
- All in-country meals – including our celebration meal!
- 3 nights accommodation in Osh (2 nights before, 1 night after)
- 17 nights camping
- Park entry permits and camping fees
- Porters to carry your personal gear
- All group equipment (tents, cookers, gas etc.)
- Emergency equipment – comprehensive first aid kit, medicine, oxygen and radios
- Rescue cover
Not Included
The following are NOT included in our price:
- International Flights to Osh International Airport (OSS)
- Excess baggage fees charged by airlines
- Travel insurance
- Tips $100 USD
- Personal spending money
- Drinks from the bar(s)
- Pre-trip inoculations
- Personal clothing & equipment – please refer to the Kit List
- Items of a personal nature – phone calls, laundry, room service, alcoholic beverages etc.
- Unscheduled hotels and restaurant meals e.g. if bad weather grounds flights
- Any additional costs associated with leaving the expedition early
Difficulty Level
All of our UK Courses & Worldwide Expeditions come with a suggested difficulty level to help you choose the correct one. For a full explanation of the Scottish Winter, Alpine and UK Rock Climbing grading systems, this blog explains them all – Grades Explained
Grading for UK Courses
With all our UK courses please refer to the Trip Suitability section for more specific details on course expectation and technical and physical levels required.
C1 – Intro Course: open to any level and ability
C2 – Intermediate Courses: previous experience of scrambling/rock climbing or winter mountaineering
C3 – Advanced Courses: previous technical summer or winter climbing experience
Grading for Worldwide Expeditions
With all our Worldwide Expeditions you should refer to the Trip Suitability section for more specific details on the expedition expectation and technical and physical levels required. If in any doubt please don’t hesitate to contact us.
Physical
A. Good basic fitness, as for UK hill walking and mountaineering. Average rucksack weight: 6-8 kg
B. Good cardio-vascular fitness which for most people requires some training, by running, hiking and perhaps some gym work. Average rucksack weight: 8-12 kg.
C. High level of fitness coupled with physical toughness and the ability to carry a heavy rucksack for long periods. Average rucksack weight: 12-18 kg.
D. As for C, but tougher. Climbs of this grade are exceptionally strenuous and some weight loss is inevitable. Train hard and arrive fit. Welcome to ask for advice if training specifically.
E. Hard physical effort at extreme altitude which requires thorough preparation based on your experience of previous trips. Comments for ‘D’ also apply. May cause long-term fatigue after the trip.
Technical
1. Low angle snow or straightforward scrambling on rocks. Ropes are not usually required. Previous climbing experience is not essential.
2. Ropes are used principally for glacier travel and low angle snow or ice slopes. Ice axe and crampon experience necessary.
3. Short, steep sections of snow or ice up to about 50 degrees. Previous snow and ice climbing experience of Scottish III/Alpine PD is essential.
4. Long, steep snow and ice slopes with short steps of very steep ice or low grade rock climbing. Good all-round climbing ability required to Scottish III/Alpine AD.
5. Very steep ice (Scottish III/IV or harder) or rock (Hard Severe or harder). Suitable for competent mountaineers who have climbed consistently at these standards.
In-country Safety
Government Advice
We support the British Foreign & Commonwealth Office (FCO) ‘Know Before You Go’ campaign and recommend that you have a good read of the FCO Travel Advice for Kyrgyzstan.
24/7 Expedition Medical Advisors
We work very closely with two specialist Expedition Medical Advisors (EMA’s). If you have any concerns about how your health conditions may be affected whilst in the mountains with us, you are welcome to talk with our EMA’s prior to your trip – all you need to do is let us know and we’ll put you in touch. Whilst on expedition our EMA’s are contactable 24/7 to provide our leaders with advice or assistance during any arising medical situation.
Emergency Operation Procedures
We work very hard to ensure we have a clear plan for all eventualities that may arise during the expedition. Liaising with local agencies including mountain rescue means we adhere to local regulations, have a clear evacuation process and ensure all the ‘what ifs’ are covered.
Risk Assessments & British Standards
Whilst expeditions to big mountains have inherent objective risks, we do our very best to mitigate these risks as much as possible. Careful planning and thorough consideration of all aspects of the trip means that there are very few surprises. We take advice and guidance from the British Standards BS8848 publication as well as from our experienced leaders and local agents.
